Four Ways to Cut In

To "cut in" the butter means rubbing chunks of butter into the flour. When making scones, biscuits, pie dough, or quiche dough, we distribute the solid fat this way so when the fat melts during baking, it leaves small pockets of air which expands as the temperature increases, helping create light baked goods. For flaky dough, cut in the butter just until the chunks are the size of peas. For mealy or tender dough, the fat is blended more thoroughly, until the mixture looks like cornmeal or breadcrumbs. The trick is to not dawdle. Keep the ingredients cold. Only work the dough as needed so not to develop the gluten too much.


Here are four ways to cut in the butter:

If you have one of these, combine the dry ingredients in the work bowl fitted with a metal blade. Pulse a couple of times. Add cold small chunks (one-tablespoon pieces) of butter to the flour mixture and pulse repeatedly at 1 second intervals until the desired size of butter is reached. I usually transfer the mixture to another bowl before I add the liquids because I prefer not to grapple with a doughy blade.



With a standing mixer, use the paddle attachment to combine the dry ingredients first. With the mixer going on low speed, add small chunks of cold butter a little at a time and continue mixing until the mixture looks good to you. Rosalind used this method when she made cream scones.


Some bakers prefer to use a fork or pastry blender. If you want flaky pastry and you're working with a small batch, this allows for more control. Just toss in the cold pieces of butter in the bowl of dry ingredients to coat them with flour. Using a fork or a pastry blender, press the butter into the dry ingredients, breaking the chunks into tiny pieces.


Or you can use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour mixture. Keep in mind that normal body temperature is 98.6F and butter melts around 90F. Work fast.