29.11.09

Lemon Sables


This recipe is an elaboration of our basic shortbread cookie recipe. Besides the flavoring, we only use three ingredients to make shortbread:

Flour : to provide structure and strength to the cookies. Flour is mostly starch but it also has protein (gluten) that we can manipulate to produce firm and chewy bread or soft and tender cakes. To develop the gluten in the flour, we must add moisture and then mix the dough. The moisture in our shortbread cookies comes from the water content of the butter (15% water and 85% fat). The more we mix the dough/batter, the more gluten develops. In making bread, we knead the dough so that the gluten forms long elastic strands that will trap carbon dioxide (from the yeast) in tiny pockets and make the bread rise and yield a firm and chewy crust. We don't want that when we make cookies. The more we work the dough, the tougher the cookies. We add the flour last and mix it just until combined.

Different flours differ in gluten content; bread flour has a lot and cake flour not too much. Many cookie recipes call for all purpose flour, which falls in between bread and cake flour.

Butter in shortbread cookies not only adds moistness and richness, it acts as the glue to sugar and flour. Also, the fat in butter increases the shelf life of the cookies.

Sugar adds sweetness and crust color (as it caramelizes with heat). It creates tenderness and fineness of texture and also increases the shelf life of products by retaining moisture.

So now, we are going to alter this shortbread recipe by adding egg yolks. The yolks increase the fat, protein, and moisture content of the cookies. The fat "shortens" the dough by weakening the gluten network thus yielding more tender and crumbly products. Most importantly, the addition of yolks binds the dough together so that we can easily roll it up into a log. And here we have a recipe for:

Lemon Sables

8 oz unsalted butter (cold, cut up into small pieces)
1/2 c sugar
2 egg yolks
2 1/4 c flour (all purpose)

as flavorings, we will add:
2 T lemon zest
a pinch of salt

Place the butter and sugar in the KitchenAid bowl. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed just until the butter combines with the sugar. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time until well incorporated. Add the flour, lemon zest, and salt. Mix until just combined. Divide the dough in half. Shape each half into a 1 inch diameter log.

Roll in raw sugar, granulated sugar, candy sprinkles, or chopped nuts. Or you can leave it plain.

Wrap a piece of parchment or wax paper around the dough and use a ruler to press the paper tight around it.

Chill the dough until firm. Slice the cookies 1/4 inch thick, rotating the roll of dough often to keep the log from getting squashed and misshapen from the weight of the knife.

Place the cookies an inch apart and bake at 350F for 12 to 15 minutes, until the cookies are firm to the touch.

8 comments:

  1. You are a great teacher, Hazel. Just one thing...when do I take the wax paper off? (Sorry, it's the technical writer/editor in me... :) And actually I ask because it almost looks like the wax paper is still on in the photo of slicing, so I was wondering if it's easier to slice with the paper on and then just peel the paper off each slice?

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  2. Thanks Becky! I really appreciate your feedback. I unwrapped the logs for Rosalind so I didn't even realize that I skipped that part in the instructions. For us, peeling the paper off before slicing works better because we end up with cleaner, smoother slices and we don't have little pieces of wax paper to deal with. It's really easy to slice as long as the log is firm but not rock frozen. The photo where Rosalind slices the logs is taken outside in the patio where it is considerably brighter. That's probably why everything looks a little waxy. If I live within yelling distance to Jeff or Rhanie, I would make them take the pictures because it's really not my thing.

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  3. I figured that was where you took the paper off, but I keep finding out new ways of doing things from you, so it's always good to check. By the way, I think your photos look great. My mouth waters looking at the food, and having Rosalind in some of the pictures is a nice touch.

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  4. I know that it's kind of counterintuitive, given the title of this recipe, but I don't like lemon-flavored things. (Both you and Becky have been recipients of my pastries where I've taken a bite and gone: ew, lemon--here you go!) Would this recipe work with other flavors?

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  5. Hey Rach! I was thinking about you when we were making these. How about replacing the zest with a teaspoon of vanilla or almond extract or a teaspoon of cinnamon (plus or minus, depending on your taste) or just leaving the lemon zest out all together? You can also replace a 1/4 cup flour with 1/4 cup cocoa. Any of those sound interesting?

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  6. Hey--those are some great options--thanks! Glynis wants to send a Christmas care package to her step-son stationed in Bahrain and she wants something that will hold up in the heat (=not melt.) I might try to make some of these. But OF COURSE I have to make them so I'll eat some too... :)

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  7. I made this recipe yesterday for the abovementioned care package. I took the rest to a party last night and they were a HUGE hit. I added vanilla instead of lemon as you suggested and used red and green sugars for the outside. I had a friend specifically ask for this as her Christmas present. Shortbread is apparently her favorite cookie and she loved this recipe. Thanks, Hazel!!

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